Petit Meslier

A natural cross between Gouais Blanc and Savagnin, Petit Meslier was once widespread in Champagne. It nearly vanished in the twentieth century because it ripens late and gives small clusters, but a handful of growers — Duval-Leroy, Moutard, Aubry, Laherte Frères, Tarlant — have kept it alive.

It holds onto its acidity even in warm years, which makes it increasingly interesting as Champagne summers get hotter. Expect green apple, citrus pith, white flowers and a salty, mouth-watering finish. Almost always blended; very occasionally bottled on its own as a curiosity cuvée.